Book Chapter

Round Table comment. Fashion as an economic engine: continuity and change

  • Maryanne Kowaleski

This comment points out the medieval precedents of many developments characterized as new in the early modern manufacture, sale, and consumption of fashionable textiles and clothing, although these developments were more rapid and intense in the later centuries. There was, for example, a significant break in the traditional process of technological innovations in the second half of the eighteenth century, when a series of complementary inventions radically improved the production and quality of textiles. In terms of commercial strategies and consumer behavior, however, there was less significant change, although the role of the second-hand trade deserves closer attention. The comment ends by highlighting how speakers have drawn on new methodologies and sources fo understanding the relationship between fashion and the economy

  • Keywords:
  • fashion,
  • innovation,
  • shopping,
  • consumer behavior,
  • methodology,
+ Show More

Maryanne Kowaleski

Fordham University, United States - ORCID: 0000-0001-6103-777X

  1. Blondé, Bruno, Peter Stabel, Jon Stobart, and Ilia Van Damme, ed. 2006. Buyers and sellers. Retail circuits and practices in Medieval and Early Modern Europe. Turnhout: Brepols.
  2. Briggs, Chris and Ben Jervis. s.d. “Living Standards and Material Culture in English Rural Households, 1300-1600.” University of Cambridge and Cardiff University https://medievalobjects.wordpress.com/ (2021-11-30).
  3. Davies, Matthew, and Ann Saunders. 2004. The history of the Merchant Taylors' Company. Leeds: Maney.
  4. Depping, Georges Bernard. 1837. Réglemens sur les arts et métiers de Paris, rédigé au XIIIe siècle et connus sous le nom de Livre des métiers d'Etienne Boileau. Paris: Impr. de Crapelet https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k65349759/f477.item#
  5. Fontaine, Laurence, ed. 2008. Alternative Exchanges: Second-Hand Circulations from the Sixteenth Century to the Present. New York: Berghan Books.
  6. García Marsilla, Juan Vicente. 2013, “Avec les vêtements des autres: le marché du textile d’occasion dans la Valence médoévale.” In Ojets sous contraintes: circulation des richesses et valeur des choses au moyen âge, ed. Laurent Feller and Ana Rodríguez, 123-43. Paris: Publications de la Sorbonne
  7. Hansen, Gitte. 2015. “Luxury for everyone? embroideries on leather shoes and the consumption of silk yarn in 11th-13th century northern Europe”. In Textiles and the Medieval economy. Production, trade and consumption of textiles 8th-16th centuries, ed. Angela Ling Huang, and Carsten Jahnke, 86-103. Oxford-Philadelphia: Oxbow Books
  8. Fondazione Istituto Internazionale di Storia Economica “F. Datini”. s.d. Prato. http://www.istitutodatini.it/home_e.htm.
  9. Lemire, Beverley. 2012. “The secondhand trade in Europe and beyond: stages of development and enterprise in a changing material world c. 1600-1850.” Textile: Journal of Cloth & Culture, Special Issue 10: 144-63 DOI: 10.2752/175183512X13315695424392
  10. Museum of London. s.d. “Advanced search.” https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/advanced (2021-11-30)
  11. Museum of London. s.d. “Dress and textiles.” https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles (2021-11-30)
  12. Museum of London. s.d. “Search results for ‘cap’.”https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?pageSize=35&page=1&terms=cap&search=AND%3BdateFrom%3B%5B1100%20TO%201500%5D (2021-11-30)
  13. Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Mark Chambers, Louise Sylvester, and Pamela Walker. s.d. “Lexis of cloth and clothing project,” Manchester: Unversity of Manchester. http://lexissearch.arts.manchester.ac.uk/ (2021-11-30)
  14. Smail, Daniel Lord. 2016. Legal plunder. Households and debt collection in Late Medieval Europe. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
  15. Smail, Daniel Lord, Gabriel H. Pizzorno, and Laura Morreale. s.d. “Overview: the documentary archaeology of late medieval Europe.” Cambridge, MA: Harvard University. https://dalme.org/ (2021-11-30)
  16. Staples, Kate Kelsey. 2010. “Fripperers and the used clothing trade in late medieval London.” Medieval Clothing and Textiles 6, ed. Robin Netherton, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, 151-71 Woodbridge: Boydell Press. DOI: 10.1111/hic3.12240
  17. Staples, Kate Kelsey. 2011. “Con-artists or entrepreneurs? Fripperers and market space in thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Paris.” Journal of Medieval History 43: 228-54. DOI: 10.1080/03044181.2017.1298322
  18. Staples, Kate Kelsey. 2015. “The significance of the second-hand trade in Europe, 1200-1600.” History Compass 13: 297-309 . DOI: 10.1111/hic3.12240
  19. Victoria and Albert Museum. s.d. “Search on ‘cap’, dates 100-1750.” https://collections.vam.ac.uk/search/?q=cap&year_made_from=1500&year_made_to=1750 (2021-11-30)
  20. Welch, Evelyn. 2005. Shopping in the Renaissance. Consumer cultures in Italy, 1400-1600. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
  21. Williams, Paul. 2020. “The trading community of Exeter 1470-1570 with special reference to merchants and tailors.” University of Exeter, Ph.D. thesis
PDF
  • Publication Year: 2022
  • Pages: 395-401
  • Content License: CC BY 4.0
  • © 2022 Author(s)

XML
  • Publication Year: 2022
  • Content License: CC BY 4.0
  • © 2022 Author(s)

Chapter Information

Chapter Title

Round Table comment. Fashion as an economic engine: continuity and change

Authors

Maryanne Kowaleski

Language

English

DOI

10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.23

Peer Reviewed

Publication Year

2022

Copyright Information

© 2022 Author(s)

Content License

CC BY 4.0

Metadata License

CC0 1.0

Bibliographic Information

Book Title

La moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori / Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior

Editors

Giampiero Nigro

Peer Reviewed

Number of Pages

422

Publication Year

2022

Copyright Information

© 2022 Author(s)

Content License

CC BY 4.0

Metadata License

CC0 1.0

Publisher Name

Firenze University Press

DOI

10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3

ISBN Print

978-88-5518-564-6

eISBN (pdf)

978-88-5518-565-3

eISBN (xml)

978-88-5518-566-0

Series Title

Datini Studies in Economic History

Series ISSN

2975-1241

Series E-ISSN

2975-1195

187

Fulltext
downloads

312

Views

Export Citation

1,349

Open Access Books

in the Catalogue

2,262

Book Chapters

3,790,127

Fulltext
downloads

4,422

Authors

from 925 Research Institutions

of 65 Nations

65

scientific boards

from 348 Research Institutions

of 43 Nations

1,248

Referees

from 380 Research Institutions

of 38 Nations