Contained in:
Book Chapter

Makeup and marquinha: aesthetics of the bodily surface in Rio de Janeiro

  • Samuel Novacich

This chapter focuses on two aesthetic practices on the urban periphery of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. First, I discuss applications of bright, deliberately eye-catching makeup in the context of professional makeup salons, among amateur enthusiasts, and in relation to women’s empowerment classes at a community center in a small favela located in Rio’s downtown. Second, I describe a tanning practice known as marquinha (little mark), in which strips of tape are applied to the body and used to create precise tan lines. Taking as a starting point the assertion that aesthetics and political dynamics are inextricably entwined, I draw comparisons between these aesthetic practices and their relation to questions of sexuality and desire, power and self-empowerment, and to questions of race. In Rio de Janeiro, as elsewhere, aesthetics are particularly important to the politics of inequality that define the urban landscape. And while aesthetics may often express ideas and indeed “say something” about their practitioners, they are hardly just passive reflections of society. This chapter focuses instead on the pragmatic power of makeup and marquinha to “causar” (to cause) and make real material impacts on viewers. In describing these practices as pragmatic, I call attention to aesthetics as a relational practice that mediates between the self and other, and invites new social possibilities. As such, makeup and marquinha are understood as co-constitutive of the contexts within which they are found, shaping not only relations between individuals and things, but also, one’s understanding of the self.

  • Keywords:
  • aesthetics,
  • semiotics,
  • Brazil,
  • the body,
  • pragmatics,
+ Show More

Samuel Novacich

University of New York, United States - ORCID: 0000-0002-9515-9887

  1. Angelini A. 2013, “Model Favela: Youth and Second Nature in Rio de Janeiro,” Doctoral dissertation, City University of New York.
  2. Azoulay A. 2010, “Getting Rid of the Distinction between the Aesthetic and the Political,” Theory, Culture & Society, 27(7–8), pp. 239–262.
  3. Benjamin W. 1969 [1936], “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,” in H. Arendt (ed.), Illuminations, Schocken Books, New York.
  4. Bourdieu P. 1984, Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste, Routledge, New York.
  5. Caldwell K. L. 2007, Negras in Brazil: Re-envisioning Black Women, Citizenship, and the Politics of Identity, Rutgers University Press, New Brunswick.
  6. Collins J. F. 2011, “Melted Gold and National Bodies: The Hermeneutics of Depth and the Value of History in Brazilian Racial Politics,” American Ethnologist, 38(4), pp. 683–700.
  7. Cox A. 2015, Shapeshifters: Black Girls and the Choreography of Citizenship, Duke University Press, Durham.
  8. Deleuze G., Guattari F. 1980, A Thousand Plateaus, University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis.
  9. Edmonds A. 2010, Pretty Modern: Beauty, Sex, and Plastic Surgery in Brazil, Duke University Press, Durham.
  10. Fanon F. 1967, Black Skin, White Masks, Grove Press, New York.
  11. Fernandes F. 1965, A integração do negro na sociedade de classes: O legado da “raca branca,” Dominus Ed., São Paulo.
  12. Fleetwood N. 2010, Troubling Vision: Performance, Visuality, and Blackness, University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
  13. Foucault M. 1978, The History of Sexuality, Pantheon Books, New York.
  14. Gal S. 1991, “Between Speech and Silence: The Problematics of Research on Language and Gender” in M. di Leonardo (ed.), Gender at the Crossroads of Knowledge, University Of California Press, Berkeley, pp. 175–203.
  15. Geertz C. 1976, “Art as a Cultural System,” Comparative Literature, 91(6), pp. 1473–1499.
  16. Gell A. 1998, Art and Agency: An Anthropological Theory, Clarendon, Oxford.
  17. hooks b. 1992, “The Oppositional Gaze: Black Female Spectators” in Black Looks: Race and Representation, South End Press, Boston, pp. 115–131.
  18. hooks b. 1995, “In Our Glory: Photography and Black Life,” in Art on My Mind: Visual Politics, New Press, New York.
  19. Jarrín A. 2017, The Biopolitics of Beauty: Cosmetic Citizenship and Affective Capital in Brazil, University of California Press, Berkeley.
  20. Keane W. 2005, “Signs Are Not the Garb of Meaning: On the Social Analysis of Material Things,” in D. Miller (ed.), Materiality, Duke University Press, Durham.
  21. Lacan J. 1953, “Some Reflections on the Ego,” International Journal of Psychoanalysis, XXXIV, pp. 11–17.
  22. Mendoza-Denton N. 2007, Homegirls: Language and Cultural Practice Among Latina Youth Gangs, Blackwell, Oxford.
  23. McCallum C. 2005, “Racialized Bodies, Naturalized Classes: Moving Through the City of Salvador da Bahia,” American Ethnologist, 32(1), pp. 100–117.
  24. Mizrahi M. 2012, “Cabelos como extensões: relações protéticas, materialidade e agência na estética funk carioca,” Textos escolhidos de cultura e arte populares, 9(2), pp. 137–157.
  25. Novacich S. E. 2021, “‘Masking’ Makeup: Cosmetics and Constructions of Race in Rio de Janeiro,” Cultural Anthropology, 36(4), pp. 681–707.
  26. Ochs E. 1992, “Indexing Gender,” in A. Duranti, C. Goodwin (eds.), Rethinking Context: Language as Interactive Phenomenon, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, pp. 335–358.
  27. Peiss K. 1996, “Making Up, Making Over: Cosmetics, Consumer Culture, and Women’s Identity,” in V. de Grazia (ed.), The Sex of Things, University of California Press, Berkeley.
  28. Perlman J. 1976, The Myth of Marginality: Urban Poverty and Politics in Rio de Janeiro, University of California Press, Berkeley.
  29. Pinho P. 2007, “Afro-Aesthetics in Brazil,” in Ugly/Beautiful: African and Diaspora Aesthetics, Duke University Press, Durham.
  30. Pinney C. 2004, “Photos of the Gods”: The Printed Image and Political Struggle in India, University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
  31. Rancière J. 2004, The Politics of Aesthetics: The Distribution of the Sensible, Continuum, London.
  32. Ribeiro R. 1996, Alma Africana no Brasil: Os Iorubás, Editora Oduduwa, São Paulo.
  33. Roth-Gordon J. 2017, Race and the Brazilian Body: Blackness, Whiteness, and Everyday Language in Rio de Janeiro, University of California Press, Oakland.
  34. Sansone L. 2003, Blackness Without Ethnicity: Constructing Race in Brazil, Palgrave, New York.
  35. Saussure F. de. 1966, Course in General Linguistics, McGraw-Hill, New York.
  36. Skidmore T. E. 1974, Black into White: Race and Nationality in Brazilian Thought, Oxford University Press, New York.
  37. Smith C. A. 2016, Afro-Paradise: Blackness, Violence, and Performance in Brazil, University of Illinois Press, Champaign.
  38. Stoler A. 1997, “Histories of Racisms and their Regimes of Truth,” Political Power and Social Theory, 11, pp. 183–255.
  39. Velho G., Alvito M. 2000, Cidadania e violência, Editora UFRJ e Editora FGV, Rio de Janeiro.
  40. Wade P. 2017, Degrees of Mixture, Degrees of Freedom: Genomics, Multiculturalism, and Race in Latin America, Duke University Press, Durham.
  41. Zaluar A. M. 1985, A Máquina e a Revolta: As Organizações Populares e o Significado da Pobreza, Ed. Brasiliense, São Paulo.
PDF
  • Publication Year: 2022
  • Pages: 52-73

XML
  • Publication Year: 2022

Chapter Information

Chapter Title

Makeup and marquinha: aesthetics of the bodily surface in Rio de Janeiro

Authors

Samuel Novacich

Language

English

DOI

10.36253/978-88-5518-661-2.03

Peer Reviewed

Publication Year

2022

Copyright Information

© 2022 Author(s)

Content License

CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Metadata License

CC0 1.0

Bibliographic Information

Book Title

Embodying Peripheries

Editors

Giuseppina Forte, Kuan Hwa

Peer Reviewed

Number of Pages

304

Publication Year

2022

Copyright Information

© 2022 Author(s)

Content License

CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Metadata License

CC0 1.0

Publisher Name

Firenze University Press

DOI

10.36253/978-88-5518-661-2

ISBN Print

978-88-5518-660-5

eISBN (pdf)

978-88-5518-661-2

eISBN (xml)

978-88-5518-662-9

Series Title

Ricerche. Architettura, Pianificazione, Paesaggio, Design

Series ISSN

2975-0342

Series E-ISSN

2975-0350

239

Fulltext
downloads

254

Views

Export Citation

1,346

Open Access Books

in the Catalogue

2,262

Book Chapters

3,790,127

Fulltext
downloads

4,420

Authors

from 923 Research Institutions

of 65 Nations

65

scientific boards

from 348 Research Institutions

of 43 Nations

1,248

Referees

from 381 Research Institutions

of 38 Nations